Tag: Home maintenance

By removing built-up sediment, draining and flushing your hot water heater improves the heater’s efficiency and extends its working capacity/operating life. Servicing your hot water heater once a year can save you $750-$1,350 (the potential cost of installing a new hot water heater), not to mention the avoided expenses to clean up a leak!

What to Do

Remove sediment and mineral build up from your hot water heater.

What You’ll Need

•  Backyard hose
•  Gloves
•  Bucket

How to Do It

First turn off the water source to your heater, then turn off the power source. (For gas heaters, turn the thermostat to “pilot.” For electric heaters, turn the power off via its breaker switch in your home’s electrical panel.) Locate the water heater tank’s drain valve and determine where you’ll route the drained water and sediment (e.g., exterior drain, floor drain, lawn, etc.). Attach a standard backyard hose to the water heater tank’s drain valve and route the other end to the drain.

Go to the sink nearest to your hot water heater and turn on its hot water tap. Return to the water heater, open the drain valve, and drain all water from the tank. Once the tank is emptied, turn on the cold water to dislocate any remaining built-up sediment. Repeat these steps until the tank’s water runs clear. (If the water doesn’t run clear after repeated flushing or if the water drain is slow or nonexistent, you’ll want to call in a plumber.)

Close the drain valve and remove the hose. Turn on the cold water so the tank will begin to fill. Return to the hot water tap and test it—once cold water begins to flow from it, turn it off. Confirm that the drain valve is completely closed so you won’t have any leaks. Restore power to the water heater (via either gas valve or electricity breaker). Check the drain where all the flushed sediment was routed to clear and dispose of any buildup.

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LEGAL DISCLAIMER

The opinions expressed in this post are for informational purposes only. To determine the best financing for your personal circumstances and goals, consult with a licensed advisor.

A clean ceiling fan means better air quality. There’s less dust buildup on furnishings, rugs, and carpet, which means fewer allergens in your home. With cleaner air, you’ll save $80 compared to running an air purifier nonstop throughout spring and summer.

What to Do

Dust off every blade on each of your ceiling fans.

What You’ll Need

The Basics

•  Step ladder
•  Pillowcase
•  Dryer sheets or static-dust cloth
•  Microfiber cloth
•  Dust-repellent spray

The Works

•  Extendable ceiling fan blade duster

How to Do It

With a ladder:

Set a ladder under your ceiling fan, and climb to a step where you’re not overextending your arms. (You don’t want to lose your balance!) Drape an old pillowcase over each blade, then pull the pillowcase across both the top and bottom to wipe it clean. The goal is to enclose all the dust inside the case, so you’re not sending dust across the room. If you don’t want to use a pillowcase, a static-capture cloth like a dryer sheet can also do the trick. To prevent future dust buildup, spray a clean rag with dust repellent and wipe both surfaces of each ceiling fan blade.

Without a ladder:

Use an extendable fan blade duster (available at most home improvement stores) to clean each blade of your ceiling fan. Position the duster so it can dust both sides of the ceiling fan blade at the same time. Dust each blade in succession until all are clean.

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LEGAL DISCLAIMER

The opinions expressed in this post are for informational purposes only. To determine the best financing for your personal circumstances and goals, consult with a licensed advisor.

When Benjamin Franklin first said “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure,” he was talking about fire safety—and his famous adage still holds true today. Spending $15 to $20 on replacement batteries for your smoke and carbon monoxide detectors ensures that you’ll be alerted to the first sign of a fire or dangerous gases, thus preserving your property and your health. Don’t put off this potentially life-saving precaution. Get on the stepladder this weekend to safeguard your home and family.

What to Do

Replace the batteries in each of your home’s smoke and carbon monoxide detectors, then test to ensure the units are still working properly.

How to Do It

Locate each smoke detector and carbon monoxide detector in your home, open each unit, and identify the type of battery required. Remove each old battery and replace with a new one. Press each smoke detector or carbon monoxide unit’s test button to ensure the new battery is properly installed and that the detector is still in good working condition. Replace faulty devices as needed.

What You’ll Need

The Basics

•  Stepladder
•  New batteries

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LEGAL DISCLAIMER

The opinions expressed in this post are for informational purposes only. To determine the best financing for your personal circumstances and goals, consult with a licensed advisor.

Built-up dust and lint in dryer vents, coupled with heat from dryer cycles, can be a major fire hazard. The U.S. Fire Administration reports that 2,900 home dryer fires are reported each year, causing an estimated $35 million in property loss/damage. This weekend, spend an afternoon safeguarding your home by removing this fire hazard from your laundry room.

What to Do

Clear out accumulated dust and lint inside your dryer vent pipe and duct.

The Basics

•  Eye protection
•  Dust mask
•  Dryer vent cleaning kit (flexible rods, vent brush, lint remover)
•  Screwdriver

The Works

•  Power drill

How to Do It

First, find out how to access your dryer’s venting system, then determine whether to clean it from inside the house or via the home’s exterior. Once the cleaning method is decided, purchase and/or put together the flexible rods and brushes on your dryer cleaning kit ($15-$20 at most home improvement and hardware stores). Unplug the dryer, then detach the dryer duct connection.

Cleaning Your Dryer Vent from Inside the House

Using your flexible rods and brushes, reach into the dryer vent and brush out dirt and debris. Repeat until dust and lint are removed and the vent is clear.

For additional cleaning capabilities, attach your flexible rods to your power drill. Set your drill to run clockwise, at medium speed, then reach into the vent, turn the drill on slowly, and brush out dirt and debris.

Once the vent is clear, sweep up and dispose of all lint and dust. Reattach the vent pipe to the dryer and plug the dryer back in.

Cleaning Your Dryer Vent from Outside the House

Prop open or remove the dryer hood. Use your dryer cleaning kit (with or without a drill) to clear all ducts. Dispose of all debris. Replace the hood and plug the dryer back in.

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LEGAL DISCLAIMER

The opinions expressed in this post are for informational purposes only. To determine the best financing for your personal circumstances and goals, consult with a licensed advisor.

Clean, unobstructed gutters and downspouts provide a clear pathway for water to run off your roof and away from your home’s exterior siding and foundation. Regularly cleared gutters eliminate the opportunity for pooling water, ice dams, debris buildup, and pests, so this simple task helps prevent water damage to preserve your roof and overall home’s structure. And the savings can be big: Taking an hour or two a few times a year to clean your gutters can save up to $14,000 in roof replacement costs!

What to Do

Remove any built-up leaves, dirt, and debris from your gutters and downspouts before winter storms.

What You’ll Need

The Basics

•  Gloves
•  Ladder
•  Bucket with handle
•  Drop cloth or tarp
•  Scooper
•  Garden hose
•  Trash bag
•  Yard waste bag or composter‍

The Works

•  Plumbing snake

 

How to Do It

Set up your ladder so you can reach your gutters. To minimize mess, check your gutters to see if the debris is wet or dry. ‍

Dry debris‍

Scoop out dry debris into your bucket or trash bag until gutters are clear, emptying the bucket or getting new bags as needed as you progress the length of each gutter.

Wet debris

Scoop out wet debris into a bucket affixed to your gutter or toss to a streetside drop cloth or tarp. Empty bucket and/or relocate your tarp as needed.

Once your gutters are clear, dispose of all gathered debris in a yard waste bag or into your compost pile.

Then, make sure your downspouts are also unobstructed and directing water away from the house by testing them with a garden hose. Place a hose into your downspout and have a family member, friend, or neighbor turn on the water. Remove any clogs with increased water flow and/or a plumbing snake. Test and unclog all downspouts around the house.

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LEGAL DISCLAIMER

The opinions expressed in this post are for informational purposes only. To determine the best financing for your personal circumstances and goals, consult with a licensed advisor.

Patching cracks and holes in your driveway promotes a smooth and uniform surface, preventing damage to your vehicle’s tires and undercarriage. It also stops any tripping hazards, protecting you from hospital bills or liability claims. By filling cracks and holes, you’ll also deter tree roots, weeds, and pests from settling in. Finally, a uniform driveway increases curb appeal. Driveway patch and fill materials range from $3.50 to $100 at major hardware stores, so this preventive exterior home maintenance activity is a cost-effective way to preserve and protect your home for years to come.

What to Do

Repair any cracks or holes in your driveway to ensure safety and maintain curb appeal.

What You’ll Need

The Basics

•  Gloves
•  Crack filler
•  Gravel or crushed limestone
•  Replacement asphalt
•  Shovel
•  Rake
•  Plywood

The Works

•  Circular saw
•  Car

 

How to Do It

First, inspect your asphalt driveway and take inventory of any cracks and holes.

Second, check the weather forecast before beginning any driveway repair work. If rain is in store, hold off. If you have sun for the next 48 hours, you’re good to go.

Third, remove all loose debris around the crack and/or hole.

For Holes

Create a uniform working area around the hole with a circular saw, then clear all unsettled debris. If you’re working at the edge of a driveway, add a wooden board (cut to fit) to define the boundary. Add a layer of gravel or crushed limestone as a base for the new asphalt, then smooth it out and tamp it down so the foundation is level and sturdy. Fill the area with replacement asphalt, then spread it and tamp it so the surface is uniform with the rest of the driveway. Place a layer of plywood on top of the filled hole, then drive over the spot to pack down the fill.

For Cracks

Fill driveway cracks less than half an inch wide with crack filler, taking care not to overfill and create a bump in the driveway. If you do overfill, use a shovel to smooth and spread the filler. For driveway cracks wider than half an inch, use the same treatment for driveway holes.

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LEGAL DISCLAIMER

The opinions expressed in this post are for informational purposes only. To determine the best financing for your personal circumstances and goals, consult with a licensed advisor.

Cleaning your refrigerator coils improves your fridge’s efficiency—and, by extension, its duration/lifespan as a working kitchen appliance. With replacement compressors going for upwards of $600 and new refrigerators costing between $350 and $2,000 (depending on the bells and whistles), taking a half-hour every six months to clean your refrigerator coils is a cost-effective use of your time.

What to Do

Remove dust and dirt buildup along and between your refrigerator coils.

What You’ll Need

The Basics

•  Refrigerator coil brush
•  Vacuum with hose attachment
•  Gloves

The Works

•  Shop-Vac

How to Do It

First, locate the power source for your fridge and where the coils are located. (Carefully pull the fridge away from the wall if necessary.) Unplug your fridge, then remove the coil cover (if applicable).

If your refrigerator coils are on the bottom:

Use a refrigerator coil brush ($5-$20 at most retailers) to remove any dust, dirt, debris, and dander on and around the refrigerator coils, taking as many passes as necessary. Sweep up or vacuum displaced dirt.

If your refrigerator coils are on the top:

Lift coil cover, noting any sharp edges, then reach in to wipe down coils. Use vacuum attachment to gather up any residual debris from the coil compartment.

If your refrigerator coils are on the back:

Wipe away dirt and dust from your refrigerator coils with a refrigerator coil brush. Sweep or vacuum any debris from the floor.

Lastly, replace your coil cover and plug your fridge back in. Gently push the fridge back into place.

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LEGAL DISCLAIMER

The opinions expressed in this post are for informational purposes only. To determine the best financing for your personal circumstances and goals, consult with a licensed advisor.